In the Brazilian state of Rio Grande do Sul, September is quite an important month. Not only is it the month where on the 7th day, Brazil as a nation celebrates its Day of Independence, but in the Gaúcho region of the South, September is a time to showcase cultural identity and remember a simpler way of living from years gone by.
But what is a Gaúcho you may be wondering? A Gaúcho is traditionally a skilled horseman – a bit like a Southern American version of a Cowboy. Gaúcho not only originate from Rio Grande do Sul, but they are also a folk symbol in Argentina, Uruguay, the southern regions of Bolivia, and the southern areas of Patagonian Chile.
Gaúcho folk traditionally wear bombacha – a special type of trousers which are often quite baggy and loose. The bombacha will also usually be adorned with a fairly grand-looking belt, often made from leather. It’s traditional to wear a camisa (shirt) with a colete (waistcoat) over it, although some Gaúcho will also wear a poncho. On the feet of a person dressed in Gaúcho attire, you’ll find a very specific style of bota (boot) or some alpargatas – which are a comfortable type of slip-on shoe. Finally, no Gaúcho look is complete without a lenço (neckerchief), a wide-lipped gambler hat (or a Gaúcho beret), and a chimarrão in hand (traditional mate tea served in a carved wooden cup and drank through a long metal straw). It’s a strong look, to say the least.
To this day many people in this region not only keep the spirit of Gaúcho alive but live and breathe the identity, in a non-ironic way. In fact, it is this strong sense of identity that has been the catalyst for many past discussions about whether Rio Grande do Sul should break away from the rest of Brazil.
One such time ‘discussions’ broke manifested into an all-out civil uprising in 1835, when the now legendary 10-year Farroupilha Revolution, backed by the Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi, was fought and lost by the Gaúcho folk. Despite defeat, the attempted revolution is still viewed with a great deal of pride and is commemorated every year on the 20th of September.
The annual festivities, which usually run from the 7th to the 20th of September, have been very somber and subdued this year due to the consistent downpouring of torrential rain in the region, caused by several cyclone events and resulting in mass flooding. Not only have many people lost their homes, but several have also sadly lost their lives. The tragic floods have affected many people, in many ways, especially those with wooden houses either next to water or on lower land. Those caught up in the madness and anguish have my deepest sympathies.
My personal experience of the Gaúcho celebrations:
I personally attended some of the events in the city of Sapiranga, which included the likes of traditional folk music, organized cook-outs with delicious churrasco (BBQ), horse-riding displays, and traditional wood houses erected in the form of a temporary village. In these houses, you will find everything ranging from families camping out for the entirety of September to woodworkers and toolmakers giving demonstrations to the general public. This year there was even a temporary wooden chapel!
As is often the case in Brazil, accessibility is sadly far from ideal – especially when it rains. Graveled paths and waterlogged passages make for difficult terrain if you’re a manual wheelchair user like me. Though there is a disabled toilet – despite it being a little lacking in fixtures and amenities. These issues seem to pale in comparison to those faced by folks who’ve lost homes and loved ones (as mentioned earlier) and so it feels slightly awkward to even mention it as an issue.
Overall these types of events are an incredible way to learn a little more about the history and culture of a region, and I thoroughly enjoyed getting to know a little bit more about what it takes to call yourself Gaúcho!